Travelling round the world 101 - Granada, Nicaragua

Friday, El babre del mono, Granada 10.28am
I am currently in the lovely colonial town of Granada, Nicaragua. Much needed after the relentless multi-storey shopping malls and high rise buildings of Managua.

I do not think I shall be returning to Managua unless I absolutely had to. We were staying in a local hostel not too far from the bus station. We were advised by locals to get taxis everywhere but as we were travelling on a shoestring we thought we’d be fine walking to the post office a mere 15/20 minutes walk away to send a package home. Thankfully we arrived safely, packages intact. On the way back we took a detour to admire the shoreline, a few powerful looking statues and an old church. We stopped off at an ATM to get a big more cash. I always (luckily) squirrel any withdrawals away in my socks and/or bra along with my debit/credit cards. 10 minutes later, we were walking down a relatively busy crowded street (of locals) when 3 men suddenly appeared out of the crowd. The older of the 3 had a gun, which he pointed directly at my chest, and the younger 2 had knives which they aimed at my friend. To this day I cannot remember if he spoke to me in English or Spanish but the meaning was clear. I didn’t have a bag and my very small purse was attached to my belt with a looped string, I opened it and offered it to him (it had about $5 in it) he took the money and ran off, his two fellows followed suit after wrestling my friends bag away from her (which contained her withdrawal of several $100, her camera, umbrella, contacts, credit cards and other useful bits and bobs – as well as our hostel key). So. The moral of the story is to always listen to the locals! At the end of the day, it could have been much worse and we weren’t hurt. If anything, the thing that upset me most was the attitude of the other locals. Once the men had ridden off, people simply returned to their business, and no one asked us if we were ok or anything (which most certainly would have happened in Costa Rica). This either spoke of people assumption that as we were tourists we were therefore wealthy (which comparatively we obviously are) and/or of their distrust in the legal and justice system. Or simply that no one wanted to get involved.

 

Annnyyywaayyy. The town here in Grenada is beautiful. The cathedral? Wow. Set against a (thankfully) pure clear forget-me-not blue sky, to which the rich, sunflower yellow of the cathedral stands out in brilliant contrast. I cannot believe some of the photos I have taken. Not that I’m an amazing photographer or anything but it’s just so easy over here! Everything looks like its straight out of a guide book or something.

Yesterday we went to Laguna Apoyo, which is a natural fresh water lake in the middle of an extinct volcano. It was cloudy by the time we arrived after an hours hike up and down little muddy twisted paths but still absolutely magnificent. The water stretched out still and calm, a faint breeze gently rippling the water’s surface. The heavily wooded sides of the crate slope down to brush the waters´ edge. Everything is so green, peaceful and alive. The indigenous people here say that the lakes’ waters have healing powers. Luckily the day before we bumped into this very friendly chica se llama Sam, from Brighton who was doing voluntary work here and who told us how to get to this private beach, she said it was quite a trek, and she was not wrong. So worth it though. The water felt incredible silk soft-like, caressing, it was almost as if we were in an enormous bath, floating without a care in the world. Felt so good to be swimming again. One would think that you would keep really fit and in shape backpacking but unless you´re a dedicated morning jogger or whatever it can actually sometimes prove rather difficult as apart from various hikes you send an awful lot of time on various forms of public transport!

Travelling round the world 101 - Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Sunday, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala
After we left Antigua, a brief 3 to 4 hour local bus journey later, and we were dropped on the edge of Parachem on the edge of Lake Atitlan. Oh my pickled cabbage it was cold. I was wearing multiple layers, scarf enveloping my head and I was still as chilly as a pair of frozen beans. We went to Chichi markets on Thursday, o dear I spent a bit too much money (I blame the cold, froze my rational), well it was mostly present buying. The silver and jade here are just so very cheap!! Where else can you get handmade silver and jade pretty pendants etc. for 3 or 4 squids? I haggled a bed through down from 845q to 215q (as I’d been told that was still higher than the local price), I was so proud. Thought the man was going to almost actually cry, Latinos are just so dramatic. The price in the morning was 425 but by the afternoon it had risen to 845! We didn’t quite understand the logic.

The market in itself was fascinating to wander around, a vast array of widely clashing colours, smells and sights to assail the eyes and invigorate the nostrils. It was a large local market with people coming from miles around to buy, sell, peruse and haggle. We didn’t see many other tourists whilst we were there though, although we were there at the end of peak season.

The journey back from Chichi was interesting, we took three connecting local minibus collective taxi things, they ram them SO full! For a minibus that seats 12, they manage to fit about 20-25 people on, several hanging out of the open door as we rocketed along. I have a brilliant photo of my friend, closely resembling a sardine. We were literally pushed onto the bus, sitting half on strangers laps, with armpits and chest/back/arms pressed in on every angle. Thankfully I had a window seat so was pressed up against the glass instead of someone else’s face. I wouldn’t advise it for anyone who is claustrophobic!

Travelling round the world 101 - Antigua, Guatemala

Friday, Old town, Antigua, Guatemala 
This will be a brief entry, as I do not want to torture you guys with having to read too much.

We were in Antigua yesterday, which was lovely. Antigua is beautiful, it has a colonial, seeped in history feel to the place. This is not surprising given that it was the Spanish colonial capital. The architecture was stunning – in a Mudejar influenced Baroque style. It has the charm of an old European town, rather than a bustling cityscape, and is strewn with interesting ruins and attractions. Lots of the houses had stunning painted wooden panels lining them. They were generally coloured in pastel shades which added a restful air to the surroundings. The leafy old town square was bedecked with horse-drawn carriages. I am happy to announce that these horses looked in much better condition than the horses at the volcano. Antigua also has the benefit of being relatively safe and peaceful, which is a happy respite in a country which has a high homicide, but very low (2-3% prosecution rate).


We spent an enjoyable day wandering around Antigua, people watching and soaking up the sights, tastes and smells. I went into a pharmacist in Antigua to buy some cream (labelled with the price on) and asking (on the off chance) for un ´mejor precio´ (a better price) and she just gave me 7Q off (about 25%)...for no reason - I didn’t even say because I’m a student or anything! Love it. Am going to find buying things in the UK very strange…here you can haggle for literally anything, go into a DIV clothes or hardware store....if you don’t like the price...just ask for a better one. Of course, I do like to haggle as that is part of the culture, but I think it is really important to remember that a few Q to me doesn’t mean much so you shouldn’t take the biscuit.

We’re heading to Lake Atitlan tomorrow, we´re planning on going to the nearby market town, so looking forward to soaking up some culture and haggling a lot.

Travelling round the world 101 - Volcan Pacaya, Guatemala

Tuesday, Volcan Pacaya, Guatemala, Casa Amarilla hostel
I WENT UP A LIVE VOLCANO TODAY! The day dawned bright and early at 5am with the sound of my alarm. I tried to momentarily convince myself that the noise was coming from outside...I was having such a nice dream (a REAL mattress too, I was rather excited after weeks of sleeping on lumpy springs poking out even occasionally cardboard covered 'mattresses' - such a treat)...I love getting up early though (ahem, well sometimes) so opened my eyes and stretched. There is a certain quality in the early morning that cannot be found at any other point of the day. The air always seems still, softer, than what is to come. Two hours later we disembarked from the minibus to an absolute horde of local children offering us 'stick para cinco!'...about 35p for a walking stick hacked from the nearby trees. We had been told they were a) useful due to the clamberyness of the rocks (they later proved to be) and b) fun because you could stick them in the lava and set fire to them! Plus it helps the local economy – bonus. Amid the clamor of the children came the occasional call of 'taxi!'...looking around I saw a small gaggle of slightly sodden looking horses, unfortunate enough to be the ones to carry any tourist up the volcano...any who were too lazy to walk that is. Old school though. Who needs cars? However, as the horses looked rather malnourished we declined. So...the climb begins. Only a short 1 and a half hours to the summit where we were promised a sighting of flowing lava. Eek!

We reach the top of the twisting, mud slicken path to meet a biting wind and a view of pearly white mist shrouding the summit and the other two nearby volcanoes from view (Volcan de Fuego y Volcan de Aqua). The landscape was dotted with crouched weather beaten trees, which quivered in the wind. Layers and scarfs that have been removed rapidly reappear. A little further and the lava fields began to appear out of the mist. How to describe them? For those of you who have never seen one before I shall do my best. The grey black lava fields stretched away before us, rolling and undulating into strange contoured, contorted shapes. The porous rock crunches and occasionally crumbles underfoot as we walked alongside its many different formations and ridges. Long elongated rolls of blackened stiffened lava roll continuously unmoving down the mountain side. The blackness has a mineral caused sheen to it. Sulfur. Leaving shimmering deposits of the surfaces beneath our gradually-increasing-in-temperature shoes. A pleasantly warm breeze after the coldness blows warm in our faces. The wind seems to sing telling of the unseen not far ahead. A shout! Lava is sighted for the first time. Steam oozes up from a gash in the landscape.

Our guide sticks his own stick in making it spit and spark. A burst of flame, a blackened stick and several photos later we move on. Carefully navigating the sharp, spikey, uneven landscape. A fall here would be most unpleasant. The cooled lava is rough to the touch. Unstable and unpredictable, each step must be tested. Round a corner and there are gasps from the people in front as we descend a little, a red crusted river comes into view, sliding down the hillside towards us. The heat is incredible. Waves of engulfing hot air roll towards us as we head in the direction of the lava, cameras going off like crazy. Thankfully there are only 10 people in our little group so we can hear what the guide has to say although he doesn’t speak any English. I am personally glad he doesn’t, as think you can often lose things in translation. In ones and twos we approach the scorching rocks surrounding the running lava. The guide tells us the rock beneath out feet was molten not two days before, an enormous river cascading down the volcanos' side. He throws some of his water from the bottle strapped to his belt onto the rocks alongside a gash with molten lava seeping through it. The water instantly turns to steam with a sharp satisfying hiss. After a few minutes within close proximity to the lava we have to retreat as it feels as if our faces are being scorched, our eyelashes and eyebrows about to be burnt from our faces. This will definitely be one of those stories to tell the grand children – the whole experience has been absolutely incredible.

Travelling round the world 101- Semuc Champey caves and pools

Saturday, El Retiro hostel, Languin, Guatemala 
Summer solistice bebbe! Doesn't one love the pagan festivals? Ahem. The most natural light we shall see in one go this year. I went on THE most fun tour ever today to Semuc Champey near Languin. We started by doing a massive rope swing into the river, then we all went into these underground very dark but interesting caves, we were all given a candle each, you had to swim in parts...which I totally didn't realise until the floor disappeared!...., so surreal turning round and seeing this line of people in waist to chest deep water wading along holding the candles aloft. When we had to swim some people swam one handed whilst others placed the candles sideways in their mouths...although this of course meant that they often went out and had to be re-lit by someone else's.  I felt like a ye oldey cave lady. 

The cave formations were so interesting, great swirls that eddied up right to the edge of the candle light. Stalactites reached down, the beginnings hidden in shadow. There was a certain stillness to the air, accompanied by the steady drip of water droplets descending from the roof above, the water chilled your skin as it swirled around you, brown, opaque, and unreadable. I couldn't help think what the Mayan people think of us; these tourists who pay to light candles and wander in and out of their caves that have been around for however many years, as long as memories passed down remember.

Slightly surreal. Great fun though.

We went up and down rickety ladders, in and out and over waterfalls, jumping off things, etc. After emerging into the startling bright sunshine after the consuming darkness of the caves, we were each thrown a black inner tube and proceeded to float serenely down the river, which was rather lush. Rather like little skin and black coloured plastic ducks, bobbing around in the middle of Guatemalan paradise. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking and it was uber sunny too wahoo. One hand trailed lazily in the silky turquoise water as the feeling of the hot sun beaming down on our skin and heads lulled us into a peaceful state of lazy awe. We exited the river (I almost got too carried away with the peaceful lolling and almost entered the current woops) before doing a (yellow) bridge jump plunging however many meters into the river far below before each swimming to the far shore. Shortly after entering Semuc Champey park, a hike was needed up this hill to a 'mirador' aka awesome viewpoint where you could over look the Semuc Champey pools.

We then had some free time to swim and dive and stuff in the pools themselves. I was lying on a rock just before a little waterfall where one pool spilled over into the next, gazing around at the scenery around me. I couldn't quite believe me eyes. It is not often that you arrive at a place that looks exactly like...or even better in this case than the pictures. Like something out of a Hawaiian Lord of The Rings. Sometimes my eyes cannot quite believe themselves. I feel so incredibly lucky to be able to experience and see so much of God's astounding creation. The mind boggles. There are not words enough in the English language, or any idioma for that matter, to describe its beauty.

All too soon, it was time to climb back into the back of the open backed truck...with just a few bars around and one over the boot back thing to hold onto whilst standing up and down these incredibly winding gravel roads - was fun! We arrived back at the hostel feeling very...how can I describe it 'fresh and slightly dazed' I think is best...really healthy and clean from the inside out. It was weird, We had a shower and got ready for dinner but it was as if we couldn't function! as if being surrounded by suck stunning and surreal scenery had all but robbed us of our western world habits. Quite nice but slightly disorientating for a while. In honour of the longest day in the year the guys at the hostel had made a mini (scale) version of Stonehenge and lit a bonfire. Dinner was an all you can eat Mexican buffet and oh penguin's flippers was it good...very pagan indeed...ahem. Though we actually couldn't move for about 4 hours after dinner haha. I did sleep well though. Zzzzzz

Travelling round the world 101 - Copan Ruinas, Honduras to Tikal Ruinas, Guatemala

Wednesday, 18:52, internet cafe in Copan Ruinas, Honduras
The Copan Ruinas were incredible, dampened only somewhat slightly by the fact that my lower legs got bitten half to death by mosquitoes on the first night we were there. Strange, beccause in the previous 3 months of travelling I had been bitten in total maybe 10 times. My feet had been near a small hole in the mosquito net tacked over the window overnight, and by morning my calves were completely red with bites. There was even a diagonal line across them where my legs has obviously come out from under the sheet. So I set out to explore the ruins with socks pulled up to my calves (a really good look). As we both spoke close to fluent Spanish we were able to choose a local Mayan guide who was absolutely fascinating, he took us to smaller parts of the ruins buried deep in the jungle and after seeing my legs gave me a few leaves to rub on them which stopped the itching at once. He told us so much about the history of the incredible buildings, local lore and the Mayan people themselves. The beds for the ancient Mayan nobility were tiny, they must have all been around 4 feet tall.

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Wow I have written far too much to type home. Ok enough for now. Remind me to write about the journey, over turned lorry, puppy in a sack, santa rosa and motorbikes, oo! and loud lovebirds squawking.

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Terrifying I shall be home in under 5 weeks! A very strange concept. I am currently in Antigua, Guatemala. This is the first country to make me feel slightly homesick, or in any case a certain longing for my home land. We were driving on a rather bumpy mini shuttle bus type thing from La Flores (contact point for the rather incredible Tikal Ruins) to Copan and then to Languin (home to Semuc Champay...the most incredible natural pools you will ever see in your lives...Google it! Or see below :) 

Anyhoo, the landscape could of almost been in the Lake District. I am not kidding. Green rolling hills, jersey cows, lush vegetation.

So how has the last month been spent? Copan Mayan ruins, horse back riding through the mountains, eating freshly caught fish from a 22km lake, ferry rides, WRECK DIVING in Utila, I am now PADI Advanced qualified woop, I plan to go back next summer to do my Dive Master methinks, soooo love diving its incredible, a totally different world. Livingston, jungle treks, river cruises, a lot of local food trying, sunrise tour to the Tikal Ruins woooooeeeeeee words fail me. We awoke at 3am to pile into a minibus, by 05.30 I was seated on top of temple IV watching the jungle wake up around me. Kinda puts things into perspective huh? 

Which brings me to...Languin, Guatemala